Sodium hydroxide relaxers break the disulfide bonds in the hair cortex to permanently straighten the curl pattern, but this chemical process can also damage the follicle and surrounding scalp tissue. When combined with tight styling, relaxers have been associated with traction alopecia and central centrifugal cicatricial alopecia (CCCA). Density tracking with myhairline.ai documents whether your relaxer use is contributing to measurable hair loss over time.
How Relaxers Affect Hair and Follicles
Chemical relaxers work by breaking and restructuring the protein bonds that give hair its curl. The two main types use different active chemicals with similar results.
| Relaxer Type | Active Ingredient | pH Level | Bond Breakage |
|---|---|---|---|
| Lye relaxer | Sodium hydroxide | 12 to 14 | Fastest, strongest |
| No-lye relaxer | Calcium hydroxide + guanidine | 9 to 11 | Slower, milder |
Both types alter the hair shaft permanently. The risk to density comes from:
- Overlapping applications: Applying relaxer to previously relaxed hair (not just new growth) weakens the shaft and can cause breakage at the scalp level
- Scalp burns: Chemical contact with scalp skin can damage follicles directly
- Combined traction: Relaxed hair styled in tight braids, weaves, or ponytails increases tension on already-chemically-stressed follicles
Breakage is not the same as follicle loss, but sustained damage over years can lead to permanent follicle miniaturization or scarring.
Step 1: Establish Your Pre-Relaxer Baseline
Before your next relaxer application, take a full set of density photos with myhairline.ai. This becomes your reference point.
Where to photograph:
- Crown and central scalp (the area most vulnerable to CCCA)
- Hairline margins (temples, forehead, nape)
- Part line (spread the hair along your natural part to expose the scalp)
When to photograph: At least 3 days before your relaxer appointment. The scalp should be clean, dry, and free from styling products that could obscure the surface.
What to record: The date of your last relaxer application, the type of relaxer (lye or no-lye), and the processing time used.
Step 2: Post-Relaxer Tracking
After each relaxer application, take the same photos 14 days later. This timing allows:
- Initial scalp irritation to resolve
- Any immediate shedding from the chemical process to complete
- The hair to settle into its new straightened position
Compare the 14-day post-relaxer reading to the pre-relaxer baseline. Small fluctuations (1 to 3%) are normal and reflect shedding from the chemical process. Larger drops (5% or more) that persist suggest the application caused measurable damage.
Step 3: Track Across Multiple Relaxer Cycles
A single comparison tells you very little. The real insight comes from tracking across 4 to 6 relaxer cycles (typically 16 to 36 weeks, depending on your retouch schedule).
| Relaxer Cycle | Pre-Relaxer Reading | Post-Relaxer Reading (Day 14) | Change |
|---|---|---|---|
| Cycle 1 | Baseline | Compare to baseline | Establish pattern |
| Cycle 2 | New pre-reading | Compare to Cycle 1 | Trend forming |
| Cycle 3 | New pre-reading | Compare to Cycle 2 | Trend confirmed or denied |
| Cycle 4+ | New pre-reading | Compare to full history | Long-term assessment |
Stable pattern: Pre-relaxer readings remain consistent across cycles. The relaxer is not causing cumulative density loss.
Declining pattern: Each pre-relaxer reading is lower than the previous one. The relaxer (or associated styling) is contributing to progressive density loss.
Variable pattern: Readings fluctuate without a clear trend. Other factors (stress, seasonal cycling, treatment changes) may be influencing density.
Step 4: Isolate Relaxer Effects from Other Variables
Density changes may not be caused by the relaxer alone. To isolate the chemical effect, control for these variables:
Styling tension: If you wear tight styles between relaxer sessions, traction alopecia may be the primary driver. Track hairline margins specifically, as traction preferentially affects the front and temporal hairline. Read more about traction alopecia tracking for dedicated protocols.
Heat styling: Flat irons and blow dryers add thermal stress on top of chemical stress. Log heat styling frequency alongside your density readings.
Treatment medications: If you are using minoxidil (40 to 60% moderate regrowth) or finasteride (80 to 90% halt loss), these will independently affect your density. Track treatment start dates and dosage alongside relaxer data.
Natural cycling: Hair growth cycle phases cause normal 3 to 5% fluctuations. Allow at least 6 months of data before attributing trends to relaxer use specifically.
Step 5: Evaluate Whether to Continue, Modify, or Stop
After 6 to 12 months of tracking data, you have enough information to make an evidence-based decision.
Continue Current Protocol
Your density is stable across cycles. Pre-relaxer readings are not declining. The chemical process is not causing measurable harm to your follicle density.
Modify Your Protocol
You see mild decline (3 to 5% over 6 months). Consider:
- Switching from lye to no-lye relaxer to reduce chemical intensity
- Extending the interval between applications (e.g., from 6 weeks to 10 weeks)
- Avoiding overlapping (applying relaxer only to new growth, never to previously relaxed shafts)
- Reducing styling tension between sessions
Transition Away from Relaxers
You see significant decline (5% or more over 6 months), especially in the crown or central scalp area. This may indicate early CCCA or cumulative follicular damage. Discuss your tracking data with a dermatologist who specializes in Afro-textured hair loss.
Transitioning from relaxed to natural hair requires a 6 to 12 month growing-out period. During this time, continue tracking to document whether density stabilizes or recovers once the chemical applications stop.
Recognizing CCCA Warning Signs in Your Data
Central centrifugal cicatricial alopecia is a scarring form of hair loss that disproportionately affects women of African descent. Research has linked it to relaxer use, though the exact causal mechanism is debated. Early signs in tracking data include:
- Progressive density loss centered on the crown
- A "shiny" or smooth scalp appearance where follicles have been permanently destroyed
- Tenderness or itching at the crown (not captured by photos, but worth logging)
- No recovery despite stopping relaxer use
If your tracking data shows these patterns, consult a dermatologist promptly. CCCA is irreversible once scarring occurs, but early intervention can preserve remaining follicles.
Start Tracking Your Relaxer Impact
Get your pre-relaxer baseline reading at myhairline.ai/analyze and begin building the dataset that tells you exactly what your relaxer is doing to your density.
This content is for informational purposes only and does not constitute medical advice. Consult a board-certified dermatologist for diagnosis and treatment of hair loss conditions.