SMP uses larger pigment particles than microblading, which is why it typically retains longer and requires fewer touch-up sessions over time. But "typically" is not a guarantee for your skin type, lifestyle, and sun exposure. Tracking pigment retention with myhairline.ai gives you the personal data to know exactly when each treatment needs a refresh.
What Is Hairline Microblading?
Hairline microblading is a semi-permanent cosmetic procedure that creates the appearance of individual hair strokes along the hairline. A technician uses a handheld blade to make fine incisions in the skin at a depth of 0.5-1mm, depositing pigment into each cut.
The result mimics natural hair strokes and works best for filling in sparse areas along the frontal hairline. Microblading is most commonly used by patients at Norwood 2-3 who want to create the illusion of a denser, more defined hairline without surgery.
Key characteristics:
- Depth: 0.5-1mm (epidermis/upper dermis)
- Pigment type: Iron oxide-based, fine particles
- Appearance: Individual hair-like strokes
- Best for: Hairline definition, sparse area fill-in
- Pain level: Moderate (topical numbing used)
What Is Scalp Micropigmentation (SMP)?
SMP deposits tiny dots of pigment across the scalp to create the appearance of a closely shaved head or to add density to thinning areas. The pigment is placed deeper in the dermis (approximately 2mm) using a specialized tattoo machine.
The result looks like a buzz cut or adds the illusion of density when combined with existing hair. SMP works across all Norwood stages, from early thinning to Norwood 7.
Key characteristics:
- Depth: 1.5-2mm (mid-dermis)
- Pigment type: Carbon-based or specialized SMP inks, larger particles
- Appearance: Stippled dots resembling hair follicles
- Best for: Full scalp coverage, density illusion, scar camouflage
- Pain level: Low to moderate
Head-to-Head Comparison
| Feature | Microblading | SMP |
|---|---|---|
| Pigment depth | 0.5-1mm | 1.5-2mm |
| Particle size | Fine | Larger |
| Initial sessions | 1-2 | 2-4 |
| First touch-up | 6-8 weeks | 4-6 weeks |
| Longevity | 12-18 months | 4-8 years |
| Major refresh cycle | Every 12-18 months | Every 4-8 years |
| Cost per session | $400-$800 | $1,500-$4,000 |
| 5-year total cost | $2,000-$4,800 | $2,000-$5,000 |
| Best Norwood stages | 1-3 | 1-7 |
| Sun sensitivity | High (fades faster with UV) | Moderate |
| Color shift risk | Can turn orange/pink | Can turn blue/green |
Why Pigment Retention Varies
Neither microblading nor SMP produces identical results for every person. Several factors affect how long pigment holds:
Skin type: Oily skin breaks down pigment faster than dry skin. Patients with oily scalps may see microblading fade in as few as 8-10 months, while dry-skinned patients may retain for 18+ months.
Sun exposure: UV radiation degrades pigment particles in both treatments. SMP's deeper placement provides more protection, but neither treatment is immune to sun-related fading.
Immune response: Your body's immune system gradually breaks down and removes foreign pigment particles. Individual immune activity levels create significant variation in retention timelines.
Technician skill: Proper depth placement is critical. Too shallow, and pigment migrates out quickly. Too deep, and it can blur or spread. Experienced practitioners produce more consistent retention.
How to Track Pigment Retention With myhairline.ai
Tracking pigment retention follows a different protocol than tracking hair density or treatment response. Here is the step-by-step approach:
Step 1: Photograph Immediately After Healing
Take your first tracking scan 2-3 weeks after your initial session, once the treated area has fully healed and any scabbing has resolved. This is your 100% retention baseline.
Use consistent lighting, camera angle, and distance for every scan. The myhairline.ai system works best when you standardize these variables.
Step 2: Monthly Scans for the First Year
Monthly scans capture the fading curve. Most patients see the steepest drop in the first 3 months after treatment for microblading, and a much more gradual fade with SMP.
| Month After Treatment | Microblading Retention (Typical) | SMP Retention (Typical) |
|---|---|---|
| Month 1 (post-healing) | 100% (baseline) | 100% (baseline) |
| Month 3 | 80-90% | 95-100% |
| Month 6 | 60-75% | 90-95% |
| Month 9 | 45-60% | 85-92% |
| Month 12 | 30-50% | 80-90% |
| Month 18 | 15-30% (refresh needed) | 75-85% |
| Year 3 | N/A (already refreshed) | 60-75% |
| Year 5 | N/A | 40-60% (refresh needed) |
Step 3: Log Environmental Variables
Note sun exposure levels, skincare products used on the scalp, and any medications that may affect retention. Retinoids, exfoliating acids, and frequent swimming in chlorinated water can all accelerate pigment breakdown.
Step 4: Identify Your Personal Refresh Point
Your tracking data will show the point at which retention drops below your acceptable threshold. This varies by person. Some patients are comfortable at 70% retention, while others prefer to refresh at 85%.
Knowing your personal fade rate lets you schedule touch-ups proactively rather than reactively, and it eliminates the guesswork from your maintenance budget.
Cost Analysis: 5-Year Ownership
The initial cost of SMP is higher, but its longer retention means fewer refresh sessions over time. Here is a realistic 5-year cost comparison:
| Year | Microblading Cost | SMP Cost |
|---|---|---|
| Year 1 | $800-$1,200 (initial + touch-up) | $2,500-$4,000 (initial + touch-up) |
| Year 2 | $500-$800 (refresh) | $0 |
| Year 3 | $500-$800 (refresh) | $0 |
| Year 4 | $500-$800 (refresh) | $0-$500 (minor touch-up for some) |
| Year 5 | $500-$800 (refresh) | $1,000-$2,000 (major refresh) |
| 5-Year Total | $2,800-$4,400 | $3,500-$6,500 |
For patients at Norwood 2-3 who only need hairline definition, microblading may be the more cost-effective option despite its shorter retention. For Norwood 4+ patients needing broader coverage, SMP provides better long-term value.
Combining Cosmetic Options With Medical Treatment
Neither microblading nor SMP grows real hair. They are cosmetic solutions that create the appearance of hair or density. For the best overall outcome, combine a cosmetic approach with medical treatment.
A common combination for men at Norwood 3-4:
- Finasteride (1mg daily) to halt further loss (80-90% efficacy)
- Minoxidil (5% topical, twice daily) for regrowth in thinning areas (40-60% efficacy)
- SMP or microblading to fill in remaining sparse zones
Track all three components with myhairline.ai. Your density scans capture the medical treatment response, and your appearance scans track pigment retention. Read more about SMP documentation and tracking and hairline microblading tracking.
Which Should You Choose?
Choose microblading if:
- You are Norwood 1-3 and want a natural hairline
- You prefer the look of individual hair strokes
- You are comfortable with annual touch-ups
- Your primary concern is hairline definition, not density
Choose SMP if:
- You are Norwood 3-7 and need broader coverage
- You prefer a buzz-cut or shaved-head aesthetic
- You want longer intervals between maintenance sessions
- You need scar camouflage from a previous FUE or FUT procedure (FUE leaves small dot scars of 0.7-1.0mm, FUT leaves a linear scar)
Start Tracking Your Cosmetic Treatment
Get your baseline scan at myhairline.ai/analyze before your first session. With monthly tracking, you will build the personal retention dataset that tells you exactly when to schedule your next touch-up.
This article is for informational purposes only and does not constitute medical advice. Consult a licensed cosmetic practitioner for treatment recommendations specific to your skin type and hair loss pattern.